Quest Type: Epic-Tier DIY Project
Difficulty Rating: End-Game Content (Advanced)
Time Investment: 40-60 hours (spread over 2-4 weekends)
Budget: $800 – $2,500 (depending on options)
Skills Required: Basic carpentry, electrical wiring, computer assembly
Reward: Legendary status among your friends + unlimited draft beer while gaming
The Loading Screen (Why This Build Exists)
Listen, at some point in every nerd’s life, you have a revelation: “What if I combined my two favorite things into ONE ultimate thing?”
For some people, that’s peanut butter and chocolate. For us? It’s arcade gaming and draft beer.
Picture this: You’re playing Street Fighter, Mortal Kombat, or a classic run-and-gun shooter. Your beer is LITERALLY built into the cabinet. No walking to the fridge. No warm beer sitting on a table. Just reach down, pull the tap, and pour yourself a fresh pint WITHOUT PAUSING THE GAME.
This isn’t just furniture. This is a STATEMENT PIECE. This is what you point to when someone asks “what did you do this summer?” This is the conversation starter at every party. This is the thing your friends text you about: “Yo, can we come over and play arcade games?”
Is this practical? Not really.
Is this necessary? Absolutely not.
Will you be the coolest person in your friend group? 100% yes.
I’ve built two of these over the years (v1.0 in 2019, v2.0 in 2023). I’ve made mistakes, learned lessons, and figured out the optimal design. This guide contains everything I wish I’d known before I started.
Warning: This project requires power tools, electrical work, and refrigeration plumbing. If you’ve never used a table saw or wired electrical components, consider starting with a simpler project or finding an experienced friend to help. Safety first, gaming second.
The Vision: What We’re Building
The Design Overview
We’re building a full-size, stand-up arcade cabinet with an integrated kegerator in the base. Here’s what makes this build special:
Top Section (Arcade Cabinet):
- 19-24″ LCD monitor
- Arcade controls (joystick + buttons)
- Powered by Raspberry Pi or PC
- Speakers with volume control
- Coin door (non-functional, just aesthetic)
- Marquee with backlit artwork
- RGB LED lighting (optional but VERY cool)
Bottom Section (Kegerator):
- Mini-fridge or chest freezer conversion
- Single or dual tap tower
- CO2 tank and regulator
- Temperature control
- Drip tray
- Insulated beer lines
The Integration:
- Tap tower mounted on the front of the cabinet
- Shared power system
- Cable management
- Unified aesthetic design
- Optional: RGB lighting that syncs with games
Dimensions (Standard Build):
- Height: 5.5 – 6 feet (comfortable standing play height)
- Width: 24 – 27 inches (fits standard doorways)
- Depth: 30 – 36 inches (stable base, room for keg)
- Weight: 200-300 lbs when loaded (this is HEAVY)
Phase 1: Planning & Design
Step 1.1: Choose Your Base Design
You have two main approaches:
Option A: Chest Freezer Conversion (Recommended for Beginners)
- Pros: Cheapest, easiest, most energy efficient, huge capacity
- Cons: Takes up more floor space, lower to the ground
- Best For: First-time builders, budget builds, multiple kegs
- Cost: $150-300 for used chest freezer
Option B: Mini-Fridge Build (Recommended for Space-Conscious)
- Pros: Compact, upright design, easier tap tower mounting
- Cons: More expensive, less capacity, less efficient
- Best For: Apartments, smaller spaces, cleaner aesthetic
- Cost: $200-500 for mini-fridge
My Recommendation: Chest freezer if you have space. It’s cheaper, more efficient, and easier to work with. You can fit a full-size keg OR multiple smaller kegs.
Step 1.2: Sketch Your Design
Before buying ANYTHING, draw out your design. You need to figure out:
- Monitor size and placement (too high = neck pain, too low = hunched posture)
- Control panel angle (typically 15-20 degrees for comfortable play)
- Cabinet width (wider = more stable but harder to move)
- Kegerator placement (centered for balance)
- Overall height (standard arcade height is 5.5-6 feet)
Tools for Planning:
- Graph paper + pencil (old school, works great)
- SketchUp (free 3D design software)
- MAME Arcade Cabinet Plans (download templates online)
Critical Measurements:
- Monitor viewing height: 50-55″ from floor to center of screen
- Control panel height: 38-42″ from floor
- Base depth: Must accommodate keg (16″ diameter) + CO2 tank + clearance
Nerd Tip: Print out your design at scale and tape it to a wall. Stand in front of it and simulate playing. Does the height feel right? Is the monitor too high? Adjust BEFORE cutting wood.
Phase 2: The Master Parts List
Alright, here’s EVERYTHING you need. I’ve organized this by section and included budget vs. premium options.
Section A: Kegerator Components
Refrigeration Unit:
| Item | Budget Option | Premium Option |
|---|---|---|
| Freezer/Fridge | Used 5 cu ft chest freezer – $150 | New 7 cu ft chest freezer – $300 |
| Temp Controller | Inkbird ITC-308 – $35 | Johnson Controls – $80 |
Keg & CO2 System:
| Item | Budget | Premium |
|---|---|---|
| Keg | 5-gallon Cornelius (used) – $60 | New 5-gal ball-lock keg – $120 |
| CO2 Tank | 5 lb aluminum tank – $80 | 10 lb steel tank with handle – $150 |
| CO2 Regulator | Taprite single gauge – $60 | Taprite dual gauge – $90 |
| Beer Line | 10 ft 3/16″ line + clamps – $15 | Pre-assembled line kit – $40 |
| Tap/Faucet | Standard chrome tap – $25 | Perlick flow control tap – $75 |
| Tap Tower | Single tap chrome tower – $60 | Draft beer tower with chiller – $120 |
| Drip Tray | Basic stainless steel – $20 | Recessed drip tray with drain – $45 |
| Shank | Standard 4″ chrome shank – $15 | Stainless steel shank – $30 |
Budget Kegerator Total: ~$520
Premium Kegerator Total: ~$1,050
Where to Buy:
- Keg equipment: KegWorks, Beverage Factory, Adventures in Homebrewing
- Chest freezer: Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, Lowe’s, Home Depot
- CO2: Local welding supply shops, airgas
Section B: Arcade Cabinet Components
Display & Computing:
| Item | Budget | Premium |
|---|---|---|
| Monitor | Used 19″ LCD monitor – $40 | New 24″ gaming monitor (144Hz) – $200 |
| Computer | Raspberry Pi 4 (4GB) – $75 | Mini PC (i5, 8GB RAM) – $400 |
| MicroSD/SSD | 128GB microSD – $20 | 500GB SSD – $60 |
Controls:
| Item | Budget | Premium |
|---|---|---|
| Joysticks (x2) | Sanwa-style clones – $15 each | Genuine Sanwa JLF joysticks – $30 each |
| Buttons | Chinese LED buttons (x10) – $25 | Sanwa buttons w/ LEDs – $50 |
| Encoder Board | Zero Delay USB encoder – $15 | I-PAC 2 encoder – $45 |
| Player buttons | Generic 1P/2P buttons – $8 | Illuminated start buttons – $20 |
Audio:
| Item | Budget | Premium |
|---|---|---|
| Speakers | Logitech 2.0 speakers – $25 | Soundbar or 2.1 system – $80 |
| Amp | Built into speakers | Separate amp for better control – $40 |
Lighting (Optional but Awesome):
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Marquee backlight | LED strip 16ft – $15 |
| Button LEDs | Built into buttons |
| Undercabinet LEDs | RGB LED strip – $20 |
| Controller | RGB controller with remote – $15 |
Aesthetics:
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Coin door | Replica coin door (non-functional) – $25 |
| Vinyl graphics | Custom arcade artwork print – $50-150 |
| T-molding | 25 ft roll (for edges) – $20 |
| Marquee artwork | Custom printed translucent vinyl – $30 |
Budget Arcade Total: ~$320
Premium Arcade Total: ~$1,115
Section C: Cabinet Construction Materials
Wood & Hardware:
| Item | Quantity | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| 3/4″ MDF sheets | 3 sheets (4×8) | $120 |
| 2×4 lumber | 8 ft boards (x4) | $20 |
| Wood screws | 1 lb box 2″ screws | $8 |
| Wood glue | Titebond II | $8 |
| T-molding groove router bit | 1/2″ or 5/8″ bit | $15 |
| Hinges | For access panel | $10 |
| Casters | Heavy duty wheels (x4) | $30 |
| Paint/Stain | Black or custom color | $30 |
| Primer | For MDF sealing | $15 |
Electrical:
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Power strip | Surge protector 6-outlet |
| Extension cord | Heavy duty 10 ft |
| Wire management | Cable clips, zip ties |
| Illuminated power switch | Arcade-style switch |
Cabinet Build Total: ~$301
Section D: Tools Required
Essential Tools (You NEED These):
- Circular saw OR table saw ($80-300)
- Drill with bits ($50-150)
- Jigsaw ($40-100)
- Router with T-molding bit ($60-150)
- Sander or sandpaper ($20-80)
- Clamps (x4 minimum) ($30)
- Measuring tape ($10)
- Carpenter’s square ($15)
- Pencil & marker ($2)
- Safety glasses ($10)
- Dust mask ($5)
Nice to Have:
- Table saw (way better than circular saw) ($200-500)
- Brad nailer ($60-150)
- Hole saw set for drilling tap holes ($25)
- Multimeter for electrical testing ($20)
- Level ($10)
Tool Budget If Starting From Scratch: $300-500 (borrow what you can!)
TOTAL PROJECT COST BREAKDOWN
Budget Build: $1,141 (+ tools if needed)
Mid-Range Build: $1,700
Premium Build: $2,466 (+ tools if needed)
My Recommendation: Go mid-range. Spend on the things that matter (kegerator components, good joysticks) and save on aesthetics you can upgrade later.
Phase 3: Building the Cabinet (Step-by-Step)
SAFETY WARNING
Before we start: Power tools are DANGEROUS. Wear safety glasses. Use hearing protection. Don’t rush cuts. Keep your workspace clean. NEVER operate power tools while drinking. I’m serious. Build the cabinet sober, then drink beer from it once it’s done.
Step 3.1: Cut the Main Cabinet Panels
We’re building a standard arcade cabinet design. Here are the panels you need to cut from 3/4″ MDF:
Panel Dimensions (Standard Design):
- Sides (x2): Custom shape (see template)
- Front panel: 24″ W x 38″ H
- Back panel: 24″ W x 36″ H
- Top: 24″ W x 20″ D
- Control panel: 24″ W x 12″ D (cut at angle)
- Monitor bezel opening: Cut to fit your monitor size
- Marquee holder: 24″ W x 8″ H
Where to Get Cabinet Plans:
- SlagCoin.com (excellent free arcade plans)
- KennysCade plans (paid but detailed)
- Trace from existing cabinet if you have access
Cutting Process:
- Print your side panel template at full scale (tape together multiple sheets)
- Trace template onto MDF
- Cut with jigsaw, staying OUTSIDE your line
- Sand down to final dimensions
- Use first side panel as template for second (for symmetry)
Nerd Tip: MDF creates TONS of dust. Work outside if possible. Wear a good dust mask. Seal your MDF with primer before assembly to prevent moisture damage.
Step 3.2: Build the Cabinet Frame
Assembly Order:
- Attach 2×4 supports to inside corners of side panels
- Connect front panel to side panels with screws + glue
- Add back panel
- Install top panel
- Cut and install bottom panel (leave access for kegerator)
Critical Points:
- Pre-drill ALL screw holes (MDF splits easily)
- Use wood glue + screws for maximum strength
- Check square with carpenter’s square at each step
- Let glue dry 24 hours before moving to next phase
Access Panel: You need a way to access the kegerator. Options:
- Hinged back panel (easiest, recommended)
- Removable side panel with barrel bolts
- Front access door (advanced, looks cleaner)
Step 3.3: Route T-Molding Grooves
T-molding is the plastic edging on arcade cabinets that gives them that classic look AND protects your edges.
Process:
- Install T-molding router bit (typically 1/2″ or 5/8″)
- Set depth to 3/8″
- Route groove along ALL visible edges
- Go slowly and steadily (rushed routing = mistakes)
- Vacuum out sawdust from grooves
Nerd Tip: Do NOT route the bottom edges (where cabinet meets floor). You’ll save material and it’s not visible anyway.
Step 3.4: Paint & Finish
Finishing Process:
- Sand ALL surfaces (120 grit, then 220 grit)
- Apply 2 coats of primer (let dry between coats)
- Sand lightly after primer (220 grit)
- Apply 2-3 coats of paint (spray paint works great for MDF)
- Let cure for 48 hours
Color Recommendations:
- Classic: Flat black (timeless, hides imperfections)
- Modern: Gloss black (looks sleek but shows fingerprints)
- Custom: Match your game room aesthetic
Step 3.5: Install T-Molding
Once paint is dry:
- Cut T-molding to length (add 2″ for safety)
- Insert T-molding into groove by pressing firmly
- Work your way around edges
- Use rubber mallet if needed (gently!)
- Trim excess with utility knife
Phase 4: Kegerator Integration
Step 4.1: Prepare the Refrigeration Unit
For Chest Freezer:
- Remove any baskets/dividers inside
- Install temperature controller:
- Probe goes inside freezer
- Controller plugs into wall
- Freezer plugs into controller
- Set temp to 38-40°F (beer serving temp)
- Let it cool for 24 hours before loading keg
For Mini-Fridge:
- Remove shelves
- Measure interior to confirm keg fits
- Install temp controller if needed (some fridges run too cold)
Step 4.2: Install the Tap Tower
This is the CRITICAL integration step.
Process:
- Measure and mark tap tower position on front of cabinet
- Drill 1″ hole for shank (this is where beer flows through)
- Mount drip tray below tap tower position
- Install shank from inside cabinet through hole
- Connect tap/faucet to shank (hand-tighten, then wrench)
- Mount tap tower collar over shank (decorative cover)
Mounting Options:
- Through-cabinet mount: Drill through MDF front panel (permanent)
- Surface mount: Attach tower to small platform on front (easier)
Nerd Tip: Use a hole saw slightly larger than your shank diameter. Tight fit = harder to install. Too loose = leaks.
Step 4.3: Install CO2 System
Setup:
- Mount CO2 tank inside cabinet (use bracket or strap)
- Connect regulator to tank
- Connect gas line from regulator to keg (gray disconnect for gas)
- Set regulator to 10-12 PSI (standard serving pressure)
Safety Notes:
- CO2 is NOT dangerous in these quantities, but:
- Don’t store tank in sealed, unventilated space
- Check for leaks with soapy water (bubbles = leak)
- Ensure regulator is OFF when changing tanks
Step 4.4: Connect Beer Lines
Process:
- Connect liquid line to keg (black disconnect for beer)
- Run beer line from keg, through fridge, to shank
- Use 3/16″ ID beer line (standard size)
- Keep lines as short as possible (less foamy beer)
- Secure lines with clips so they don’t kink
Line Length Formula:
- Distance from keg to tap + 2 feet for resistance
- Typical length: 5-6 feet
Balancing Your System: Foamy beer = unbalanced system. You need:
- Proper temp (38-40°F)
- Proper PSI (10-12 for most beers)
- Proper line length (longer = more resistance = less foam)
Step 4.5: Load Your First Keg
Process:
- Cool keg in fridge for 24 hours BEFORE tapping
- Connect gas line to keg (gray side)
- Pull pressure release valve on keg
- Connect liquid line to keg (black side)
- Set regulator to 10-12 PSI
- Wait 30 minutes for pressure to equalize
- Pour first beer (expect foam, it’ll settle after a few pours)
Breaking In The System: Your first few pours will be foamy. This is normal. The lines need to purge air and the system needs to balance. After 4-5 pours, you should get perfect pints.
Phase 5: Arcade Setup
Step 5.1: Mount the Monitor
Process:
- Remove monitor stand/base
- Cut monitor bezel opening in cabinet front
- Mount monitor using VESA bracket OR custom wood frame
- Ensure monitor is centered and level
- Connect power and video cables (run through cabinet)
Monitor Angle: Most arcade cabinets angle the monitor back 5-10 degrees. This reduces glare and is easier to view while standing.
Step 5.2: Build the Control Panel
Layout (Standard 2-Player Setup):
[1P Start] [Joystick] [6 Buttons] [6 Buttons] [Joystick] [2P Start]Button Spacing (Standard):
- Buttons: 1-1/8″ drill holes, spaced 2-3/4″ apart
- Joystick: 24mm drill holes
- Use template (print from online, tape to panel)
Drilling Process:
- Mark all positions with template
- Drill pilot holes (1/8″)
- Drill final holes with correct size bits:
- Buttons: 1-1/8″ hole saw or spade bit
- Joystick: 24mm bit (or 15/16″)
- Sand any rough edges
Wiring:
- Install joysticks (4 screws each)
- Install buttons (push through, twist lock ring)
- Connect wires from buttons to encoder board:
- Each button gets 2 wires (signal + ground)
- Joystick has 4 directions (up/down/left/right) + ground
- Connect encoder to computer via USB
Encoder Setup:
- Zero Delay boards = plug and play, no config needed
- I-PAC boards = may need button mapping software
Step 5.3: Install Computing Hardware
Raspberry Pi Setup (Budget Option):
- Install RetroPie image on microSD card
- Insert SD card into Pi
- Mount Pi inside cabinet (adhesive or screws)
- Connect HDMI to monitor
- Connect USB encoder
- Connect power
- Load ROMs via USB stick or network transfer
Mini PC Setup (Premium Option):
- Install Windows or Linux
- Install emulator frontend (LaunchBox, Attract Mode)
- Mount PC inside cabinet
- Connect all peripherals
- Configure emulators and controls
Nerd Tip: Put your computer hardware on a SEPARATE surge protector from the kegerator. This protects your electronics if the compressor surges.
Step 5.4: Audio Installation
Speaker Placement:
- Option 1: Mount speakers inside cabinet, facing forward
- Option 2: Mount speakers on sides of cabinet
- Option 3: Soundbar across top of cabinet
Wiring:
- Connect speakers to computer audio out (3.5mm or HDMI audio)
- Mount volume control on front or side for easy access
- Route wires through cabinet cleanly
Nerd Tip: Get a small USB-powered amp if your speakers are weak. Arcade games are LOUD and it’s glorious.
Step 5.5: Marquee & Lighting
Marquee Creation:
- Design or download custom artwork (print at FedEx/print shop)
- Get printed on translucent vinyl OR backlit film
- Cut to fit marquee holder
- Install LED strip behind artwork
- Mount marquee holder at top of cabinet
RGB Lighting (Optional):
- Install LED strips:
- Under control panel (illuminates joystick/buttons)
- Inside cabinet (backlight effect)
- Behind marquee (artwork glow)
- Connect to RGB controller
- Program colors/effects to match games (if fancy)
Phase 6: Final Assembly & Testing
Step 6.1: Power Management
Electrical Setup:
- Install power strip inside cabinet
- Plug in:
- Kegerator/freezer
- Computer
- Monitor
- Speakers
- LED lights (if using)
- Run single power cord out back of cabinet to wall
- Optional: Install illuminated arcade power switch on front
Nerd Tip: Label every plug with masking tape. When something breaks, you’ll thank yourself.
Step 6.2: Cable Management
Nothing says “amateur build” like a rat’s nest of cables. Clean it up:
- Use zip ties to bundle cables
- Attach cable clips to interior walls
- Keep power cables separate from video/audio cables (reduces interference)
- Leave slack for maintenance access
Step 6.3: Test EVERYTHING
Kegerator Test:
- Load keg, pressurize system
- Pour test beer
- Check for leaks (connections, hoses)
- Verify temperature holds at 38-40°F
- Ensure drip tray catches overflow
Arcade Test:
- Boot computer
- Test all buttons and joysticks in menu
- Load a game, verify controls work
- Test audio (both speakers)
- Verify monitor display (no dead pixels, good color)
- Test marquee lighting
Integration Test:
- Can you pour a beer while gaming? (YES!)
- Does anything interfere? (kegerator noise during quiet games?)
- Is everything accessible for maintenance?
Step 6.4: Mobility (Optional)
This cabinet is HEAVY (250+ lbs with keg). Add casters for mobility:
- Install heavy-duty locking casters on bottom (4 corners)
- Ensure weight capacity is 300+ lbs per set
- Lock casters when in use (prevents rolling during gameplay)
Nerd Tip: If you’re NEVER moving this, skip casters and save money. But if you might rearrange your game room, they’re worth it.
Phase 7: Customization & Upgrades
7.1: Artwork & Vinyl Graphics
Where to Get Graphics:
- TheArcadeArtwork.com
- CustomArcadeGraphics.com
- Design your own in Photoshop/Illustrator
Application:
- Clean surface with isopropyl alcohol
- Measure and mark placement
- Apply vinyl slowly with squeegee (avoid bubbles)
- Trim excess with utility knife
7.2: Advanced Lighting
Addressable RGB LEDs: If you’re tech-savvy, use WS2812B LED strips + Arduino controller to:
- Sync cabinet lights with game colors
- Animate light patterns
- React to game sounds
Software:
- Prismatik (for reactive PC lighting)
- WLED (for standalone LED control)
7.3: Multi-Keg System
Upgrade to Dual Taps:
- Install second shank + tap
- Add keg selector valve OR run separate lines
- Serve two beers simultaneously (lager + IPA, anyone?)
Cost: +$150-200 for second tap setup
7.4: Smart Home Integration
Connect to Home Assistant/Alexa:
- Smart plug for cabinet power (voice control)
- Temperature monitoring via wifi temp sensor
- RGB light control via smart controller
- “Alexa, turn on the arcade and pour me a beer” (okay you still have to pour manually)
Troubleshooting Guide
Common Issues & Fixes
Problem: Foamy Beer
- Cause: Temperature too high, pressure too high, or lines too short
- Fix: Check temp (should be 38-40°F), lower PSI to 10-12, add 2 feet of line length
Problem: Flat Beer
- Cause: Pressure too low or CO2 leak
- Fix: Increase PSI, check all connections with soapy water
Problem: Controls Not Responding
- Cause: USB connection loose, encoder failure, or software issue
- Fix: Replug USB, test encoder in Windows device manager, reconfigure emulator
Problem: Monitor Flickering
- Cause: Loose HDMI cable or power interference
- Fix: Reseat cable, separate power/video cables, try different HDMI cable
Problem: Kegerator Not Cooling
- Cause: Temp controller failure, compressor issue, or door not sealing
- Fix: Check temp controller settings, verify freezer runs when plugged directly into wall, check door seal
Problem: LED Lights Not Working
- Cause: Power supply issue or broken strip
- Fix: Test with multimeter, replace power supply or damaged section of strip
Maintenance Schedule
Weekly:
- Wipe down control panel (fingerprints/spills)
- Check drip tray (empty if needed)
- Quick visual inspection for leaks
Monthly:
- Clean tap faucet (soak in PBW or cleaner)
- Check CO2 tank level
- Dust internal components
- Check for loose screws/connections
Every Keg Change:
- Clean beer lines (BLC or PBW solution)
- Inspect keg connectors for damage
- Check CO2 connections for leaks
Annually:
- Deep clean kegerator (full disassembly)
- Replace beer lines if discolored
- Update emulator software
- Touch up paint if needed
Budget Breakdown: What I Actually Spent
Here’s my REAL costs from my v2.0 build (2023):
| Category | Budgeted | Actual | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kegerator | $600 | $720 | Upgraded to dual tap system |
| Arcade Hardware | $400 | $510 | Bought better joysticks mid-build |
| Cabinet Materials | $300 | $380 | Mistakes + extra paint |
| Tools | $150 | $200 | Needed better router bit |
| Vinyl Graphics | $100 | $180 | Custom design cost more |
| Misc/Unexpected | $100 | $250 | Always over budget here |
| TOTAL | $1,650 | $2,240 | 35% over budget (typical) |
Lessons Learned:
- Always budget 20-30% over your estimates
- You WILL make mistakes and need extra materials
- Upgrading mid-build is tempting (and expensive)
Is This Worth It? (The Real Talk)
Time Investment: 50+ hours of work
Cost: $1,200 – $2,500
Difficulty: Advanced (not a beginner project)
Alternatives:
- Buy pre-built arcade cabinet ($800-2,000) + separate kegerator ($400-800) = $1,200-2,800
- Buy cheaper arcade emulation box ($200) + just drink cans like a peasant
Why Build It Anyway?
- Bragging Rights: Nobody else has this
- Customization: Exactly what YOU want
- Learning: You’ll develop real skills
- Satisfaction: You BUILT this with your hands
- ROI: Pays for itself in social capital (priceless)
Who Should Build This: ✅ Experienced DIYers who’ve done woodworking before
✅ People with time (weekends over 1-2 months)
✅ Homeowners with space (this is NOT apartment furniture)
✅ Those who genuinely want both arcade + kegerator
✅ Anyone who wants an epic project and conversation piece
Who Should NOT Build This: ❌ First-time woodworkers (too complex, start simpler)
❌ Apartment dwellers (too big, too heavy)
❌ People short on time (this isn’t a weekend project)
❌ Anyone who’d rather just buy one pre-made
❌ Those without power tools OR budget to buy them
The Final Word
I’m not going to lie to you: Building an arcade cabinet + kegerator combo is HARD. It’s time-consuming. It’s expensive. You’ll make mistakes. You’ll get frustrated. You’ll probably cut at least one piece of wood wrong and have to re-cut it.
But when it’s done? When you’re standing there playing Street Fighter II with a freshly-poured craft IPA in hand, beer flowing from a tap YOU installed, playing on controls YOU wired, in a cabinet YOU built with your own hands?
That feeling is unmatched.
This isn’t just furniture. It’s a testament to your dedication to both gaming AND craft beer. It’s a conversation starter. It’s the centerpiece of your game room. It’s the thing your friends request access to. It’s LEGENDARY status among your peers.
So if you’ve read this far, if you’re seriously considering this build, if you have the time, tools, and budget…
Do it.
You won’t regret it.
And when you finish, send me a photo. I want to see your build. I want to celebrate with you. Because we’re part of a very exclusive club: People who built the ultimate gaming + drinking machine.
Now grab your tools, plan your build, and let’s make something incredible. 🕹️🍺
Resources & Links
Plans & Templates:
- SlagCoin Arcade Plans: [Link]
- Build Your Own Arcade Cabinet book: [Amazon Link]
Kegerator Parts:
- KegWorks: [Link]
- Beverage Factory: [Link]
- Adventures in Homebrewing: [Link]
Arcade Components:
- Arcade Shock: [Link]
- Focus Attack: [Link]
- DIY Retro Arcade: [Link]
Software:
- RetroPie: [Link]
- LaunchBox: [Link]
- MAME: [Link]
Tools (Affiliate Links):
- Table Saw: [Amazon Link]
- Router Kit: [Amazon Link]
- Drill Set: [Amazon Link]
P.S. – If you build this and DON’T post photos on social media, did you even build it? Tag @thedrunknerd so I can share your build!
P.P.S. – Seriously, don’t operate power tools while drinking. Build it sober, drink from it drunk. That’s the rule.
P.P.P.S. – When you mess up a cut (you will), remember: that’s what wood filler and paint are for. Perfection is overrated.
P.P.P.P.S. – Your partner/spouse/roommate will think you’re insane for building this. They’re right. But they’ll also be impressed when it’s done. Probably.
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